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roses

PREP AND SELECT THE RIGHT ROSES IN 3 STEPS

STEP 1: WHY PLANTABLE POT?

All of the dormant roses at Friedman’s will come in plantable pots. Plantable pots are made from natural, materials such as fiber or peat that gradually decompose. The theory is that by planting your roses pot and all, you won’t disturb the roots while planting.

Benefits to using plantable pots include:

  • Allowance for larger root systems
  • More flexibility with when roses needs to be planted
  • No damage to the plant if it starts sprouting in the plantable pot
STEP 2: PATENT VS NON-PATENT

The difference between patented and non-patented roses is relatively simple.

Patent roses refer to newer varieties developed by a rose breeder. These types of roses are protected from reproduction by others via a patent. Just the same as if you were to patent a time machine!

Non-Patent roses are mostly older varieties that are no longer covered by plant patents. These tried-and-true roses have been grown successfully for a long time.

STEP 3: GRADES OF ROSES

There are three grades of roses to choose from which include Grade 1, Grade 1.5 and Grade 2. Here at Friedman’s we only stock Grade 1 roses, which are classified as having 3 or more healthy canes and a strong root system, so you know you’re getting the best of the best with all of the varieties we carry.Grade 1 rose varieties include:

  • Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras; These should have 3 or more strong canes.
  • Floribundas; These should meet the same standards as Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras.
  • Polyanthas; These should have at least 4 or more canes.
  • Climbers and Ramblers; These should have at least 3 canes. / organic matter, going easy on the manure. Don’t replace the existing clay – just amend it roughly 50 / 50 with rich compost.

COMMON ROSE VARIETIES

HYBRID TEA
FLORIBUNDA
SHRUB
MINIATURE
CLIMBING
GRANDIFLORA
POLYANTHA
GROUND COVER
ENGLISH
TREE

PLANTING ROSES

SUPPLY LIST: PLANTING NEW DORMANT ROSES
  • Dormant rose plant(s)
  • B1 Solution (Liquinox is a great option)
  • Friedman’s 5-gallon bucket for mixing your B1 Solution with water
  • Shovel
  • Gloves
  • Soil amendment (Fox Farm Planting Mix is a great option)
  • Bypass pruner
  • Rubbing alcohol or bleach for pruner cleaning
  • Irrigation
  • 4 foot stake (for tree roses)
  • Green tie tape (for tree roses)
  • Trellis (for climbing roses)
PLANTING & PRUNING NEW DORMANT ROSES

How to get started:

  • Unpack and plant by removing the outer plastic package. Break up the plantable pulp pot to make it easier for the roots to grow out
  • Soak the roots in a B1 + water solution for up to 24 hours
  • Amend your soil by mixing in compost or another organic material. We recommend Fox Farm Planting Mix for this purpose
  • Select the depth at which you’ll plant your fruit tree, usually 12-18” inches deep and 2 ft. wide.. Remember, you do not want to bury the graft of the rose
  • Perform initial pruning to promote new growth. Any Friedman’s Team Member can do this for you, just ask!
  • Fertilize your roses after the rose has established, usually a month or so after planting
  • Evaluate further pruning needs. Typically 1/3 of your rose needs to be pruned back after planting.
PRUNING YOUR NEW ROSES: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Basic pruning steps:

  1. Remove all remaining leaves. This allows you to see the structure of the plant and clearly see all the canes (stems)
  2. Start by pruning dead wood
  3. Remove overgrown or weak canes back to an outward facing bud, making a sloping cut ¼ inch above the bud
  4. Prune the remaining canes
  5. Seal fresh cuts using a pruning sealer
  6. Clean up
  7. Feed your roses

What happens if you don’t prune your roses? If you don’t prune enough, you may not get as many blooms on your roses. Additionally, you may risk spreading disease to an otherwise healthy plant. Healthy growth is especially susceptible to disease when it’s surrounded with dead and dying wood. Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, rust and blackspot find the moist darkness of old, tangled bushes suited to their proliferation. Diseased plants then become easily subjected to pest and weather damage.

CARING FOR EXISTING ROSES

CARING FOR EXISTING ROSES

If you have dormant roses existing in your garden, here are some tips on how to care for them throughout the year.
Winter care:

  • Pruning during the winter helps prep roses for new growth in the spring
  • Dormant sprays should be used during this time to fight pests and bacterial issues
  • Mulching around roses help retain soil moisture and help keep soils cool and help resist weed growth

Spring and summer care:

  • Regular watering during the spring and summer will keep your roses hydrated and growing
  • Fertilize during the spring and summer to encourage continual growth throughout the flowering season
  • Thinning your roses helps to keep branches from getting too heavy with too many flowers and promotes new growth
  • Pest control may be needed during spring and summer
PRUNING EXISTING ROSES

What you need to know:

  • Triggers healthy new growth and encourages flower production
  • Helps to prevent fungus and disease
  • Gets rid of damaged or dead canes
  • Results in a fuller and bushier plant
  • Keeps them looking their best

What happens if you don’t prune your existing roses?
If you don’t prune existing roses, you may not get as many blooms on your roses. Additionally, you may risk spreading disease to an otherwise healthy plant.

Healthy growth is especially susceptible to disease when it’s surrounded with dead and dying wood. Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, rust and blackspot find the moist darkness of old, tangled bushes suited to their proliferation. Diseased plants then become easily subjected to pest and weather damage.

NUTRIENT DEFICIENCY
The most common nutrient deficiency is iron deficiency.

Symptoms show up on new growth as yellowed leaves with bright green veins. Leaves turn nearly white then brown, then fall as the condition worsens.

Other causes of iron deficiency:

  • Highly alkaline soil
  • Over watering
  • Poor drainage
  • Lack of available iron
Solutions for iron deficiency include simply feeding your roses.

Roses are some of the hungriest plants! Feed them regularly using organic fertilizers to ward off nutrient deficiency issues.

What happens if you over water?

Overwatering and poor drainage can result in drooping and yellowing of their leaves. Waterlogged soil can lead to root rot and cause the plant to die.

What happens if you don’t water enough?

The most obvious symptom of a dry plant is wilting. Plants will recover from wilt if they are watered before the permanent wilting point but for quality roses this is not a recommended strategy. Wilt is an indication of stress and a stressed plant will not produce the best possible flower.

MAJOR DISEASE, INSECTS AND CONTROL

Powdery Mildew

Rose powdery mildew is a fungus that produces airborne spores from infected stems or buds on roses.

It is one of the most common foliar (leaf) diseases of roses and infestation usually begins late in the growing season.

Powdery mildew control:

  • Keep the area around the bush free of debris
  • Prune and destroy diseased canes and leaves
  • Avoid planting roses in excessively shady spots that dry out slowly • Prune thoroughly
  • Avoid overhead sprinkling if possible
  • Prevent the disease by soaking dormant roses in winter with a dormant disease product
  • Wear gloves and clean pruners regularly to prevent spreading disease
Black Spot

Black spot is caused by a fungus and is one of the most common diseases found everywhere roses are planted.

Black spot will progressively weaken the plant so that fewer and fewer blooms form if the disease is left unchecked.

Black spot & rust control:

  • Keep the area around the bush free of debris
  • Prune and destroy diseased canes and leaves
  • Avoid planting roses in excessively shady spots that dry out slowly
  • Prevent the disease by soaking dormant roses in winter with a dormant disease product
  • Wear gloves and clean pruners regularly to prevent spreading disease
MAJOR INSECTS
Aphids

Aphids are a minute bug that feeds by sucking sap from plants. It reproduces rapidly, often producing live young without mating, and may live in large colonies that cause extensive damage to crops.

Non-Chemical Control OptionAphids are among the favorite foods of lady bugs and lacewings. These biological controls are not compatible with insecticides, so choose your control method carefully.

Chemical Control Option

  • Insecticidal soaps, Neem Oil, horticultural oil or other commercial insecticides work well.
Borers

Borers refers to insects that bore holes down into the center pith of the rose canes in order to create nests for their young.The two most common cane borers are actually small wasps and bees.

Borer Control Options

  • Once inside, the only way to get rid of borers is to cut out the infected canes.
  • Prune below any discolored areas then seal the cut with pruning seal
  • Prevent these pests by sealing pruning cuts when planting or preparing roses for Winter dormancy
Spider Mites

Spider mites are among the most common garden pests and are smaller than the head of a pin, making it hard to identify them.

They feed on the leaves and remove contents from individual plant cells, which makes the emptied cells appear silvery. The most noticeable damage of of infestation is white stippling on the leaves.

Spider Mite Control Options

  • Mites like hot, dry, dusty environments and may be controlled by washing leaves with a strong stream of water or by using a miticide like Neem Oil.
BENEFICIAL INSECTS
Ladybugs

Ladybugs help control insects like aphids that can damage your garden.

Minute Pirate Bugs (arrrr!)

Minute pirate bugs are beneficial as predators feeding on insect eggs and small insects through the Summer.

They provide a valuable pest control service by helping to limit the number of pests in fields, gardens and woodlands.

Green Lacewings

The green lacewing is a common beneficial insect.

They are a generalist predator best known for feeding on aphids, but will also control mites and other soft-bodied insects such as caterpillars, leafhoppers, mealybugs and whiteflies.

Hoverflies

Adult hoverflies feed on flower nectar and help pollinate some crops, but it is the larvae that are important predators in the garden.

The tiny, nearly invisible slug-like larvae scour the undersides of plant leaves for aphids, and eat them as their primary food source.

OTHER PESTS OF THE GARDEN
Deer

Deer control

  • Repellants; Start spraying in March and stop in September.

Pro Tip: Let the deer prune your roses for you!

Gophers

Gopher control

  • At the time of planting, consider using gopher baskets or cages
  • For established plants; repellents (electronic or essential oils), traps, poisons or a good dog are your best options